27 jūlijs 2012

Best of alternative Riga budget tourist guide

There is plenty of tourist attraction sites on world wide web for any tourist, but very few of them covers really what is Riga, it's spirit and things every self proclaimed traveler and nomad must see, feel and experience here. This article is legitimate, nobody is paying me and information given is not an advertisement or scam of another overpriced bar. Actually, you can report scam places by dialing +371-2-203-3000 - tourist hotline, or 112 for police and emergencies. 

So what is Riga and why should you visit it?

Riga is awesome city on the coast of Baltic sea, found in 1201 by German merchants and since then it was growing rapidly as good trading route starting from Vikings to these days. Swedes used to call it "second capital" during the Swedish occupation (medieval times), as it was largest city in the Baltic coast. Even now Riga is one of largest coastal cities by population. Riga's historical centre has been declared UNESCO world heritage site and continues to delight it's inhabitants and tourists with its beauty and culture. Riga is just like a museum. I have lived here for over twenty years, but each time I pass by some old building, I notice something new in it and it's exciting! You can never have enough of Riga!

For maps, information and other Points of Interest go to Riga Tourism Information centre, located on Rātslaukuma street 6, that's on Rātslaukuma square in Vecrīga historic centre, besides the Occupation museum and Riga dome, in front of St. Peters cathedral.




«Must see and do»
Riga is just awesome - nobody can take it's beauty in one breath! It is just stunning. There always is something astonishing about any building each time you pass by! Wikitravel covers most of must-see places and gives brief description on few points of interest. I will try to add more exact points to wikitravel on Riga sometimes soon. Here I try to highlight most awesome things even locals enjoy in their own city. For other POI's look Wikitravel, buy any Riga city guide in any store in the centre and visit Riga Tourist Information Centre for free maps and basic Riga guides. Remember to have fun!

  • Vecrīga / Old Riga / Historic centre of Riga - You can never have too much of it! Starting from old walls and windows, finishing with countless smaller and bigger towers, roof decorations and enormous amount of faces and sculptures on the buildings - it is truly amazing work of art! Each house has its own story, each church was burnt into ashes many times and reconstructed many times and survived Soviet rule. You can find a lot of Old Riga tourist guides with about many of the buildings in almost each small store you visit. Just choose as thick guide as you are interested in! My must-see of must-see in Vecrīga isn't very different from wikitravel's suggested, but it sure is simplified:
    • St. Peters cathedral (GPS) - you can go all the way up to the tower to see amazing panorama of Riga. "First mention of the St. Peter's Cathedral is in records dating to 1209. The cathedral was a masonry construction and therefore undamaged by a city fire in Riga that year. The history of the cathedral can be divided into three distinct periods: two associated with Gothic and Romanesque building styles, the third with the early Baroque period."[4]
    • Freedom monument (GPS)- Not only the Freedom monument is worth your attention - Its Boulevard of Freedom just behind the Monument of Freedom. Bastejkalns - just right from monuments point of view, completely man made hill and park with many bridges and place to sit. On the other side you can visit Latvian National Opera with its fountain. Latvian National Opera is constructed in 1863 and it was first building in Latvia which had electricity.
    • Esplanade (N 56.95390 E 24.11366) - nice park with old church constructed in 1884, Latvian National Art Museum (1905) constructed in historicism style and Latvian Art Academy (1919).
    • Rātslaukums (N 56.94751 E 24.10662) - is square where you can see Riga Town Hall (first mentioned in 1210), Roland's sculpture, House of the Blackheads (first mentioned in 1334, burnt by Germans, blown up by Soviets and reconstructed in the 80's from blueprints), memorial to world's first Town's decorated Christmas tree (1510), St. Peters Cathedral.
    • Dome square (N 56.94959 E 24.10536) - is biggest square in the Old Riga. Here you can find beer gardens, Riga Cathedral (largest medieval church in the Baltics, made in the 1211, now in renovation), just renovated brown Riga Stock Exchange building built in 1852 in Renaissance style, Latvian radio house, Ministery of Finance building and memorial shield declaring Historic centre of Riga being UNESCO World Heritage site. In the last days of Russian occupation, people made barricades around the parliament and this square was main rebel base providing food, information, warmth and medical help. Even now this place is used for various celebrations.
    • Līvu square (N 56.94955 E 24.10914). Here you can see 13th century Large Guild house built in Electric Gothic style, 16th century Small Guild house, Līvu stone, Wagner house. Composer Richard Wagner has worked in this house (built in 1781). Beer is available here.
  • AB Dam (N 56.94819 E 24.09278). Silhouette of Riga became it's symbol and continues to cut it's way to popularity all around the world. This place is small park on the water. It is in bad condition, but still people use it in various events. It is great place to take collective photos with Riga's towers, Riga's Castle and Daugava River. Small preview.
  • Alberta (N 56.95943 E 24.10816) and Elizabetes (N 56.95579 E 24.11514) streets. Here you can find best compilation of Art-Nouveau buildings.
  • Mežaparks (N 57.00597 E 24.15670) - a bit further from city centre this place is recreation park for residents of Riga. Here you can take a walk in big park, bike, take small hikes, visit Riga zoo, use adventure park. Very nice place. Kids will like it here.
  • Riga canal boating. Not too far away from the Monument of Freedom besides Bastejkalns during the summer season you can rent small canal boat or catamaran for a hour and have a great time! Riga from this point of view seems like jungle with few old buildings lurking between the trees.

  • Food and drinks
    • Budget: Pelmeņi XL - here you can get ravioli, soup and salad. Nothing very elite, just unusual fast food. (Kalķu Street 7, Galeria Centrs)
    • Winter: Vecrīga - this is great coffee shop. In cold winter days you can come here, get some tea or coffee, have some cake. These are literally all over the centre of Riga;
    • Beer gardens: For beer fans Latvia has a lot of good, exclusive surprises to offer! When you ask bartender for "Good Latvian beer" they usually will offer Aldaris. In that case you can politely decline that offer and ask once again and get confused with a lot of unknown beer names. "Užavas? Abulas? Bauskas? Valmiermuižas? Brālis, Latgales or Madonas? Brūveris or Bryveris? Which one can I take?" Before we start to visit any beer garden in Riga, we can read Beer guide to Latvia!
      Usually all beer gardens are the same, so there is no big difference which one to choose. I usually choose one of these:
      • Egle (www)- Open air beer garden located next to Riga town hall gives you the chance to try out popular export beers and almost all local micro-brewery products. Usually every evening some local band is playing on the stage, which makes this place especially interesting;
      • Folk club "Ala" (www) is unique place in Riga where beer meets culture. Here you can get traditional Latvian beer and food for reasonable prices in old Latvian atmosphere. Beer choice is severely limited.

        NOTE: One beer shouldn't cost more than 2 LVL. 2 LVL is maximum price locals are ready to pay for one beer and it is considered to be expensive.

  • My suggested routes outside Old Riga.
«Museums»
Riga has plenty of great museums, but I want to suggest you the best museums I have been to. Full list is available here.


* Etnographic open-air museum of Latvia (website). Here the time has stopped a long time ago. Traditional Latvian homes, baths, barns, wind mills and their simple, practical interiors are very popular amongst tourists. You would love to be here with your children during any event, because then you may not only visit the museum, but witness yourself traditional farmer and craftsmen market, listen to traditional songs and many other events. There is no better place to buy real, traditional souvenir for a reasonable price!

If bad weather struck you, you may visit only Occupation museum (website) in the world. Usually described as "evil Lego Brick dropped by a giant" it sure looks so. There you can see a lot of Soviet propaganda posters, guns, Soviet banned flag, witness the horror of occupation and ways people fought forced "liberty." As museum will grow very soon you may want to express your gratitude, get rid of useless change and donate it to the donation box at the entrance.

 Visit Mentzendorff’s House (website). There you can see 18th century merchants house. It has been renovated just like in the 18th century with all that time furniture. Quite unique.

* Art-Nouveau museum (website), a bit further in the future than Mentzendorff's House, but no less impressive. Yes, all those houses in Riga with naked lady sculptures, cobblestone streets, contrast colours, parabolas, arches and hanging out second stories. Riga is considered to be Art Nouveau capital of the world and many tourists go here mainly because of it. It's not the same Jugendstil you can see in Prague, Spain, Hungary, Germany. Most popular style in Riga is known as "Romantic" Art Nouveau – simplistic and modern in form, these buildings were decorated with elements from other historic styles and constitute about one third of all buildings in central Riga [1]. Here you may not only witness most Jugendstil'ised street in the city, but even visit recreated that time apartment as it was brand new!

* Sun museum (website). Have you planned to visit sunny Jūrmala, but weather ruined your plans? Don't worry, you still may find thousand suns in the only Sun museum in Europe! There you may find a lot of ancient and modern suns from many cultures all around the world and afterwards paint your own sun in creative workshop and take it as a gift! If you have your own sun and don't need it or want somebody else to have it - you may gift it to the museum and get free ticket! Children will like it here!

* Motormuseum (website). Just by the race track there is a building resembling motor - it's the largest Motormuseum in the Baltic states. Covering two stories, it has great collection of old cars, starting from fire truck with wooden spokes and ending with futuristic sports cars.

* War museum (website). Each war museum has its own story to tell, awards to show and stories to tell. Situated in ancient 14th century powder tower, it is the best place to witness struggle of one small nation towards freedom. You may see unique awards and medals given to soldiers, cannons, weapons starting from 17th century, battle uniforms. Best collectible items from here is small store at the entrance of the museum, where you can find great collection of metal, custom pins. 

* Riga aviation museum (website). You are at the airport and still have time until departure? Hadn't enough of Riga? Visit the Riga aviation museum nearby! "This aviation museum is unique in the Baltic countries and one of the largest in Europe. Its collection of Soviet aircraft is also the greatest in outside of Commonwealth of Independent States" [2]. You may see a lot of ridiculous looking helicopters and soviet planes. Main exhibition is 3rd largest helicopter ever built - Mil Mi - 6! 
Note: the most expensive museum - 10$ (5 LVL) per person, but totally worthy it.

«Events»
  • White night festival (www). Annual arts festival held all the night world wide. Riga's white nights is great opportunity for young artists to promote themselves. For art schools this is effective advertisement of their student abilities by trying to surpass rival schools. More on official Latvian white night festival website. About white night festival.
  • Long Nights of Museums (www). This is Europe wide event and each country has it's own date when these nights take place. Usually museums are open until 01:00 AM, some even until 04:00 AM and are free of charge. In Latvia this festival usually takes place in mid-May. It doesn't have official site, but when it comes close, then information is spread all around the web.
    ADVICE: Museums don't cost much here. There is no big point in waiting sometimes even hour in the line to get to the museum. Try to look for exclusive offers, like getting behind the scenes or visit some unusual exhibition. Not all museums participate in this event. Not all exhibitions are open to the public in Long Night of Museums because of possible theft. 
  • Festival of Lights "Staro Rīga" (www). This event usually takes place in mid-November. All historic centre or Riga and it's outskirts are transformed by light constantly changing shapes, displaying historical and cultural events, wars, nature, peace. More in official website of Staro Rīga.
  • Midsummer solstice festival / Jāņi. A lot of cultures celebrate summer shortest night and so do we! These celebrations have very long roots in Latvia and nowadays old traditions keeps on reviving after Soviet rule. In short - we drink beer, dance, wear plants as head-wear, jump over the fireplace, sing traditional songs dedicated only to the night of 23th June. The traditions are a lot more than my described basics and its quite hard to describe them to outsiders. It might be compared to Oktoberfest in ancient Indian tribes. Usually you can visit a lot of public events in these days, which include local traditional and popular music. 
  • Gadatirgus - Trade fair. We have loads of these. These are the days when people sell their own made goods - clothes, accessories, food and snacks. Largest Trade Fair is held in Open-air museum. For many people it is tradition to go to Open-air museum and take part in this event - buy, sell, trade, listen to music or just have a great time! Here you can get best souvenirs. Most significant ones happens in early June and late August.
  • Early Music Festival (www). The Early Music Festival is an opportunity to get a feel of the Medieval, Baroque and Renaissance periods through music. You also can expect medieval-ish location.
  • Riga city festival (www). Every year in 19 to 21st August Riga celebrates it's birthday since 1201. City's way was very rough - burned very much, once burned almost completely, occupied several times by Sweden, Denmark,Poland, Germany, Russia but now free and keeps on growing. From personal experience - this festival is fantastic. Retro car parade, food alley, concerts, air shows and fireworks - just like any other city. More smaller scale events are held privately.
  • Baltic way. You can expect to see some minor events in 23rd of August, usually free movie screenings, galleries and events at the Monument of Freedom.
  • International Contemporary Art Festival (www and vvv)
  • Lāčplēša diena. Bear slayers day is celebrated in 11th November. Celebratiing Bermontian defeat and bringing freedom to the nation. People place candles in the Brothers cemetery, next to the Freedom Monument, soldier monuments and on President's castle.
  • November 18th - Proclomation of Republic of Latvia and successful ending of War of independence. You can expect salute, army parade, torchlight procession, flower laying ceremony at Freedom monument, candle placing on the president palace.
  • For more smaller events take a look at Riga event calendar.
«Bring home from Latvia»
There are people who like to bring stuff from their trips. Usually, a lot of cheap stuff can be bought in every country's most touristy places and very seldom these things really represent that culture and quality. Best thing to bring home from Arab countries are carpets, jewellery, Finlandia from Finland, Vana Tallinn and Curd snacks from Estonia and so on. But what about Latvia?
  • Latvia has been ancient Amber trade route and even now provides tourists with this interesting fossil. Ones with bugs in them can be very pricey. Smaller pieces usually are sold just spun together in a necklace - I won't recommend those. Look for polished and bigger ones - those are amazing!
  • Rīga Black Balsam (Rīgas Melnais Balzāms) - this is one awesome and flourishing souvenir from Riga. There are dozens of ways how to consume it. It is used to prevent diseases by locals. "Miraculous properties of the drink are told in legends - it is said the balm healed the Russian Empress Catherine the Great, who once visited Riga. It is noted that admirers of the Riga Black Balsam were former French President Charles de Gaulle, Britain's Queen Elizabeth II, as well as Moscow's Kremlin leaders."[5] It is being sold in almost every hypermarket in Riga, specialised Latvijas (LB) Balzāms stores. Now there are two types of this drink - Riga Black Balsam and Riga Black Balsam Currant - I suggest to take later, Currant version of it - it is just better and sold only in cold season. No one will stop you from taking both.
  • Traditional wool socks, mittens and hats. Those you can buy on Vaļņu and Kaļķu streets or traditional Christmas markets. Usually sold together with traditional wooden ornaments, amber jewellery and wooden tableware
  • Sweets! Kids will dig it! Brands you are more likely to search for are "Gotiņa" or anything made by "Skrīveru saldumi". For fun time with kids look for gingerbread dough. Gingerbread cookies are tradition here. You would want to look for these in the market during the winter seasons, because Hypermarkets doesn't have the real thing. I have baked cookies from Skrīveru saldumi manufactured natural secret recipe gingerbread dough and those were amazing! You can find event anti-allergic gingerbread dough. People also like to take "Laima" manufactured sweets, but locals are getting more sceptical about these and chooses Estonian products.
  • Want to make a gift to your beloved lady? Most of today's jewellery sold in shops are rather boring or plain stupid. Each women is unique and deserves to be different! Traditionally shaped silver jewellery with ancient symbols is awesome thing to give to your significant other from far away land called Latvia! Locals believe that symbols may give wisdom, luck, peace, energy and wealth to people who wears them. These can be found in Gadatirgus festival (see Gadatirgus) or many markets just before Christmas. For more permanent place you can visit Baltic jewellery shop doubled as museum. Even without buying anything you will have great impression on many century old traditions and beliefs.
  • Pictures and stories. Nothing is more awesome than great stories told from experience and with graphical proof! Get your camera loaded, because it will run our of juice just after few streets!
«Tips»
  • Go to nearest tourism Information centre for free maps;
  • Ditch Riga public transport. If you want to get somewhere comfortably and cheap - get a bike. You can use Baltic Bike or any private bike rental service. Reason for this is that Riga public transport drivers are driving like mad log truckers. And 1 hour of bike rental costs you only 30% more then one way ticket in Riga public transport. Riga is not as bike friendly as Oslo or Stockholm, but we are nailing it rapidly.
  • Get lost. Its best experience you can have in old Riga. Often people are kind to help you with directions.
  • Get out by train
«Facts»
  • Riga may be 15th greenest city in the Europe, but we sure have more trees and parks than many other rivals!
  • Have you ever wondered where Christmas tree came from? Yes, first decorated city Christmas tree was placed in Riga in 1510! See the memorial shield placed in Rātslaukums, next to Occupation museum, in front of House of Blackheads. Watch beautiful video here!
  • Riga's market is one of the largest markets in the Europe. It takes 72,300 square metres and is constructed from old German zeppelin hangars.[3]
  • Riga's railway bridge is second, best lit bridge in the world.
  • Latvian national language is Latvian.
  • Latvia has inherited a lot of Nordic culture and we had good ties with Germany, so you may find a lot of Nordic-looking things and see German influence. Germans took our leaf wreath and made it one of Oktoberfest symbols.
  • Riga will be European Capital of culture in 2014. Riga undergoes a lot of maintenance and will be at it's finest. The official website is here.
  • It's O.K. to hitch hike in Baltic states.
  • Official Riga city key is missing. Rumours say, that it is somewhere in Russian archives, others state that it is lost during the Sweden invasion. So, we made new one from donated old keys in Riga city festival 810 (in 2011).
Alexander bridge photo taken from here


________________________________________________
Attribution:
Riga COA taken from Wikipedia;
[1] Quoted from Wikipedia on Art Nouveau;
[2] Quoted from Riga Aviation museum's website;
[3] Information taken from Wikipedia on Riga's Central Market;
[4] Quoted Wikipedia on St. Peters church;
[5] Quoted from visitlatvia.com. They also have other great souvenir suggestions;


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